Brovia Barolo 2016

Brovia is one of the old-guard icons of Barolo, with land and grape growing in the region tracing back to 1863. Today, this family-run operation is producing some of the best wines in its history – with 2016 serving as their greatest vintage to date. This 94 POINT stunner is their “normale” – a blend of all the fruit from their principal four crus in Barolo – and an absolute steal in the bountiful and generous 2016 vintage.

In 1863, Giacinto Brovia started his estate in the village of Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the Barolo district. Four generations, two world wars, and a phylloxera epidemic later, the estate is run by Elena Brovia, who manages the vineyards, and her husband, Alex Sanchez, who is responsible for the winemaking. Lovers of old-school, classically made Barolo have made Brovia an icon over the decades – sought after for their decidedly hands-off approach and native ferments in traditional concrete tanks.

Their single vineyard crus are stunning, rare, and somewhat pricey – but certainly worth seeking out. This “normale” however, is rightly building its own cult following – as one of the best pedigreed, quality-driven, and age-worthy Barolos available in the $100 or less category. A remarkable 60% of this wine hails from their site in Serralunga d’Alba, where they produce their top cru Barolo, called “Ca’Mia”. Their 2016 vintage of that wine earned a rare Wine Enthusiast perfect score, and the exceptional characteristics have certainly overflowed into this bottling. The remaining 40% is comprised of their three crus in Castiglione Falletto, namely Rocche, Villero, and Garblét Sue.

The structure, generosity, and power of Serralunga are evident, supported by the austere minerality and high-toned notes of Castiglione Falletto. Look for Barolo’s classic “tar and roses” markers on the aromas, complemented by notes of raw hazelnuts, white pepper, cedar, and cigar box. The wine is taut and mineral-driven on first sip, with expansive offerings of red cherries, mint, orange peel, and Earl Grey tea that reveal themselves with air and time. This is certainly a candidate for vigorous decanting in its youth and bottling that should have little difficulty cellaring for two decades or more. No nebbiolo collection is complete without Brovia, and this 2016 is a gem of a find....especially for those that grab a few before they’re gone!

PAIRING IDEAS: This pairing simply can’t be beaten – Tajarin Pasta with White Truffles – the sauce is just a bit of melted butter, some pasta water, and some grated Parmigiano Reggiano, and then the pièce de résistance – copious amounts of shaved Alba truffles.