Domaine Bertagna Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts Premier Cru 2020

Domaine Bertagna is back, and this top ranking Burgundy domaine has been on quite the run with us here at First Bottle. The wines are elegant, and balanced, while perfectly capturing the verve of youth, without sacrificing the structure required to age gracefully. This 1er Cru site is perhaps best known for the incredibly pricey Leroy, Dujac, and Louis Latour bottlings of “Les Beaux Monts” – any of which will set you back several hundreds – to several thousands of dollars per bottle. At just $114.95 – this is a steal that showcases a classic climat, at an exceptional price!

Domaine Bertagna is a historic Burgundy producer that once belonged to the Cistercian monks, who founded nearby Clos de Vougeot back in the 13th century. Though based in Vougeot, they focus on red grapes throughout 18 different climates in Burgundy, five of which are Grand Cru, and seven of which are Premier Cru – like this just under one hectare sloping plot in Vosne-Romanée, tucked between the legendary Grand Cru sites of Echézeaux and Richebourg.

The 2015, 2016, and 2018 all received 94 Points from Wine Enthusiast (the most recent ratings of this wine) and while this wine doesn’t have any pro-critics ratings – there is simply no questioning its pedigree. From the remarkable 2020 vintage that Wine Spectator scored at 96 points for here in the Côte de Nuits – this is a stunningly pure and classic snapshot of a powerful vintage that is fully ripe – but never sacrifices flashiness for acidity and structure. The wine here is chiseled and somewhat brooding initially – undoubtedly a result of the 30-50% whole cluster fermentation. A slow, cool fermentation over three weeks allows for concentration without flabbiness, while 50% new oak aging for up to 18 months gives polish and framework to the overall expression of flavor. Dark blackberry notes arise with time and air, accented with raspberry tarts and strawberry coulis, all restrained by a cool, earthy, smokiness that cushions the fruit and allows for sensations of wild herbs and forest floor to join the conversation. It’s tightly wound, for certain, but one that will surely blossom into something incredibly special over the next several years. We have only about 6 cases left of this rare beauty – from one of the top Premier Cru sites in all of Burgundy – at a pretty special price!

PAIRING IDEAS: If drinking this young, be sure to decant, and then serve with a lean, tender, and I’d argue, as flavorful a cut of steak from anywhere on the cow. I’m talking onglet, aka hanger steak, and it just can’t be beat for this. Cook it hot and fast (depending on the cut, you may just have to hard sear one side for a crust, and simply seal the other edges so you don’t overcook it. Serve it with your favorites – I like mushrooms and creamy polenta with a simple arugula salad.