Vincent Girardin Volnay Les Pitures Premier Cru 2017

We’re expertly mining that Vincent Girardin well – a simply fantastic producer that needs to be on the radar of every Burghound! This organic and biodynamic parcel, just north of the village of Volnay, is a new plot to the Girardin portfolio, yet has immediately announced itself as one of the most unique and exceptional wines in the line-up! You can’t find this anywhere else in the USA – a steal for the quality at our tasty price!

The Vincent Giardin estate was established in 1980 when Vincent began producing wine from five acres in Santenay that he inherited. He was only 19, and over the next twenty years, he built the domaine into a Burgundy powerhouse, making wines from an ever-expanding portfolio, and exporting them to every corner of the globe. In many circles, the estate developed a reputation of being a victim of its own success – as demand increased, the style of the wine became almost formulaic, and many Burgundy purists began to shy away from the wines as being almost generic. All of that began to change in 2002, when the domaine brought on winemaker, Eric Germain, brother to Jean-François Germain of the highly regarded Henri Germain house in Meursault. Less oak, longer elevage, less batonnage, and a greater attention to farming were implemented, along with a plan to slowly transition all of their holdings to biodynamic farming. The effect has been substantial, summed up by Burgundy expert William Kelley, below.

“Wines that were once oaky and somewhat exaggerated are now deep, precise and beautifully differentiated by site. There's more work in the vineyards—fully 21 hectares of which are now owned—and they are increasingly being converted to biodynamic farming...This is now a very serious source for high-quality Burgundy, and the reflex to dismiss this producer as "commercial" is entirely misplaced.” – William Kelley, Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate

The 2017 vintage was very good for Volnay, and Burgundy at large – a return to high quality and plentiful yields after a few very tough frost-laden vintages. Vigneron Jean-Philippe Fichet perhaps summarized the vintage best, when just following harvest he famously quipped,

“Anybody who is not happy should change his job!”

Girardin purchased the vineyard in 2014, a unique spot for pinot noir, as it is among the steepest slopes in Burgundy, on white marl soils not often associated with pinot noir. According the Eric Germain, this grants the wines a great tension, allowing for wines that really develop in the glass, and in the bottle – slowly transforming with air and time. Over the last several years, the wine has transitioned from 100% whole cluster to around 30% – giving a flashier, fruitier facet to a site that tends to showcase a higher dusty earth characteristic naturally. The result is noticeable and certainly makes for a nicely balanced Volnay – that perfectly straddles the line of upfront openness and cellar ageability. The fruits are dark and brooding, with spiced cherries, blackberries, and plums, with accents of sage, marjoram, and rosemary complemented by orange zest and a whisper of cinnamon. The mineral tension uplifts the wine, with the savory fruit elements granting a warm soul to the cool and jagged core. It’s delectable stuff to be certain, and will likely shine for another decade yet! Only about 8 cases left in the country, however, so don’t delay in making some yours today!

PAIRING IDEAS: I’ve been on a bit of “breakfast for dinner” kick. One of my go-to’s, and a perfect morsel to stand alongside this beauty, is a French omelet. I filled mine with a bit of finely grated Mimolette cheese, and some roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms that were dry- roasted, then sautéed in butter and finished with tarragon. I topped it all with a sprinkle of chives, and a drizzle of some mushroom demi-glace. Fantastic.