Ginglinger Fix Riesling Goldert Alsace Grand Cru 2022
The Ginglinger-Fix is hands down one of our best discoveries in Alsace. We first met them about 6 years ago in France – and were immediately blown away by the quality across their entire portfolio. They have been making wine since 1610 (yes, 1610) focusing on tiny batches of traditional Alsatian varieties – riesling, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris, and are rarely exported to the U.S.! This Grand Cru riesling from the south of Alsace is a classic – golden, layered, dry, oily, incredibly aromatic...simply everything you could want in a winter white!
Set amongst a fairytale backdrop – with the snow-capped Swiss Alps standing ominously above the Jura Mountains – you’ll find the good folks of Ginglinger-Fix. Their estate here in Alsace has been in the family's hands since 1831, though they have been farming some of Alsace’s revered vineyard sites for another two hundred-plus years prior. This plot hails from one of the most southerly crus in Alsace, the revered “Goldert” Grand Cru.
Set along the eastern ridges of the Voges mountains, Goldert means “gilded” and stands as a reference to the iconic golden color of the wines from this south by south-eastern facing site. The vines at the top (and best) portion of the vineyard grow on limestone soils, and here things climb drastically in altitude, as the vineyard changes from a steady hill down into the foothills, into a steep Alpine mountain up near the top. The Ginglinger-Fix family laid claim to these top vines long ago, and before the site was granted Grand Cru status back in 1983.
Wines have been made from this 45-hectare parcel for over 1000 years, with records that date back to the 8th century. This far more recent example is a pristine young Alsatian riesling, with that perfect balance of unctuousness and zippy, electricity acidity. The wine is round and oily, with notes of green apples and their skins, plus barely ripe pears, pomelo, key limes, and wet slate. A deft herbaceousness that evokes tarragon and lemongrass follows, all uplifted by a heady perfume of hibiscus, elderberry, and crushed pineapple. It’s a stunningly long sip, with a focus and mineral depth that should develop nicely over the coming decade. Pretty hard to resist even now, especially with the right meal
Alsatian riesling is amongst the world’s best food wines, yet it never seems to get its due here in the USA. Give this a shot, and we’re betting that you’ll become an Alsatian riesling fan for life!