Felsina Rancia Vigneto Chianti Classico Riserva 2019

95 points plus triple 94s...this is an iconic Chianti producer with an estate that dates back to the Roman Empire. Mysterious, wild, and modern – this powerful expression of Chianti Classico boasts over a decade plus of development to come. Drink this as you would a Brunello di Montalcino and savor the sense of place that defines this exceptional Chianti.

From an estate that was once a post station of the Roman Empire – situated on an important road and designed as a place to meet, take rest, and reinvigorate oneself for the journey ahead – Fèlsina has endured as a farm of great importance for centuries. The ancient wine cellar had been used for bottling as far back as the early 1900s, though it wasn’t until the late 1960s that this estate took on its current shape.

This wine is fashioned from 100% sangiovese, taking its name of Rancia from the historic farmhouse that was once a Benedictine monastery. With vines set at an elevation of over 400 meters, oriented to the southwest, the clonal material on these twenty-year-old vines is all based on massal selections made over the decades from selections of the best vines within the vineyard. This is believed to be a primary cause for the unique expression of sangiovese here – a wild and savory version that carries the unmistakable impression of Chianti Classico’s famous soils.

Following harvesting and de-stemming, all the grape must is fermented in stainless steel for 16-20 days. Daily pumpovers and punchdowns extract the deep ruby color, and the wine is then transported to new French oak barrels for aging over the next 18-20 months. The result is uniquely captivating – spicy and floral accents on the nose envelop a core of wild, woodland berries, with a savory element that harkens to smoked and cured meats, and wood-roasted fennel and herbs. Toasted walnuts, roast coffee, and dried cherries also pop up...seemingly endless layers of depth and flavors to be peeled back carefully over time. This is a wine to drink slowly and contemplate over the course of an evening – just a remarkable, singular experience that every Italian wine drinker should seek out!

PAIRING IDEAS: Now, in its youth, I would say nothing. This is complex, but exuberant, and dichotomous in the here and now, and unlikely to vibe with any chosen dish for very long. In a few years, this is ideal for a proper carbonara – simple, classic favors that are yet bold enough to stand alongside this enigma of a wine.