The 2014 Brut Special Club Cramant Grand Cru derives from 14 parcels in nine different lieux-dits (above all Le Bateau), and Gimonnet feels that it's the most successful of his stand-alone single-village bottlings. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of peach, white flowers, fresh pastry and brioche, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with a concentrated and multidimensional core, incisive acids and a long, chalky finish. Drink: 2022-2045. (Apr 2020)

The 2014 Brut Spécial Club Cramant Grand Cru is another super-impressive wine in this range. It emerges from the Bateau, Gromonts, Buissons, Bauves, Bionnes, Champ du Prévôt and Briquettes lieux-dits. Orange confit, tangerine oil, white flowers, graphite and lightly tropical fruit infuse the Cramant with tremendous complexity to match its powerful personality. The Cramant is a rich, heady Champagne with a feeling of structure that leans towards the realm of Pinot. I loved it. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 14, 2019.