Noah Lessona 2020

You might not have heard of the Lessona DOC in northern Piedmont, situated in the foothills of the Alps. This tiny spot is known for pretty, high-acidity, wondrously floral Nebbiolo – more often compared to Burgundy rather than heavier southern Piedmont styles like Barolo. This lovely 2020 bottling comes from a cool little producer on a mountainous rise and is just entering into its prime window!

100% Nebbiolo from the high-elevation, marine-sandy soils of the noble and highly esteemed Lessona DOC could easily command prices as steep as its Alps surroundings – but this ethereal 2020 is charmingly under $40 (with a savings of $30+), and has just as rad a backstory to accompany it.

The project was founded by Andrea Mosca, who left a career in architecture to acquire a few hectares of vines around the village of Brusnengo, releasing the first NOAH wines from the 2011 vintage. Today he and his wife Giovanna farm just over four hectares across the Bramaterra and Lessona growing areas – appellations that had been all but forgotten after vineyards were abandoned in the 19th century. The grapes here are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, then aged 18 to 20 months in large Slavonian barrels with a further year in bottle before release, following a traditional, low-intervention approach that lets the site speak.

Delightfully, this is a wine of vivid contrasts. Bright strawberry jam and crushed raspberry lead, ringed with the wild herbs and dried flower lift that mark high-altitude Nebbiolo, while a zip of mandarin orange zest and crushed stones delivers energy and tension. And then we move to the palate that’s juicy and just gushing with red fruit, yet framed by those firm, drying, chalky distinctly tannic edges. So very pretty, energetic, and ready to lay down for a good several years (it is Nebbiolo, after all) but truly gorgeous now with a bit of air. I can’t think of a better introduction to the understated authority of Lessona Nebbiolo! Get yourself 3 for a good time… and free shipping!

FOOD PAIRINGS: This lighter style of Nebbiolo is really killer with fish – and a Mediterranean-style whole Branzino would slam with loads of lemony, garlicky, herbal accents to bring out the flirty undertones of this wine.