Atlante Listan Negro Valle de la Orotava Canary Islands 2019

I could write a dissertation on my fascination with Canary Islands wines – but alas, a brief love letter to this 2019 Listan Negro will have to do. Chiseled with peppery, plummy structure and aromatic evidence of its volcanic ash origins, this may be one of the most fun and expressly unique red wines I’ve consumed all year. Pleasant with food and on its own, it is way too easy to pull the trigger for just under $25! 

Just about 60 miles west of Morocco in the Atlantic Ocean are the Canary Islands, an archipelago boasting distinctive white and black sand beaches, a lovely subtropical climate, and incredibly complex (some might even say... explosive) volcanic wines. Spaniards colonized the islands in the 15th century, and wines have been made on seven of the eight main islands in the centuries since. Fascinatingly, phylloxera never made its way to the Canaries, making them among the few places in the world to have ungrafted vines – some more than 200 years old, and many exclusive to the islands.

The islands grow 20 of their own recognized grape varieties, with 20 additional new ones currently under study, and 60 others that are genetic variations. Listan Negro (along with its counterpart, Listan Blanco) is the most commonly planted grape variety on the islands – with this one coming from Atlante’s oldest vineyard called La Quinta, a 400-foot elevation parcel with 150-plus-year-old vines in the Valle de la Orotava on the northern coast of Tenerife island. Trained in the Canaries’ traditional braid-like Cordon Trenzado method, the vines are left partially whole cluster and pressed traditionally by foot in shallow cement containers. Spontaneous fermentation follows for around nine days – quick, by all accounts – and then grapes are pressed in a small wooden basket press before aging for 12 months in large, used French oak barrels.

Founder Jesus Gonzalez leans quite old-school in his wine growing and making practices, coming from a widespread family tree of grape growers and farmers in Tenerife. After watching his family sell off grapes to bulk producers, he felt the fruit from these heritage vines deserved a more authentic future – and he opened the doors of Atlante (named for the surrounding Atlantic Ocean as well as the mythic paradise, Atlantis) in 2013. His efforts have been nothing short of worthwhile – culminating in wines full of vigor, freshness, and an unforgettable, unshakable sense of place.

His 2019 Listan Negro is seductively peppery – charred bell peppers, pepper-crusted salami, even a bit of cayenne-infused dark chocolate – no doubt a reflection of Tenerife’s ashy, volcanic soils. Red plums and roasted tomatoes with some dried cherries add robust fruity depth, as fire-toasted sage, rosemary, and thyme lend an herbal lift. Yes, it’s savory, earthy, and a touch smoky – yet it’s caressingly balanced with red fruits, saline acidity, and gripping tannins. For folks who crave adventure and sincerity in their glass, this is ALL you! Under $25 for this – especially given the cost of imports right now – is borderline miraculous... even a bit mischievous. Bring home six for free shipping, but many more for maximum future happiness!

PAIRING IDEAS: Michael Symon’s adaptation of Texas smoked brisket chili will probably send you straight into orbit alongside this punchy red wine – the smoky, tender meat, medley of peppers, and secret moody ingredients of cocoa powder and coffee make for the most unbelievably epic chili you might ever taste.