Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo Tradizionale 2017

Since the 1800s, the Oddero family was one of the first to make a business of selling wine from Barolo – and their 95-point 2017 Tradizionale is a stunning rendition of the very style that made them famous!

Located in the tiny northwestern Italy-corner commune of La Morra, Figli Luigi Oddero has a wine history in the region dating back to the 1800s, when Luigi’s grandparents served as winemakers and merchants. Luigi became enamored with wine himself, enthusiastically learning all he could about growing and making his beloved Langhe’s native varietals – Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, and of course, Nebbiolo – while also experimenting with international grape varieties. After his passing in 2010, his wife, Lena, and two children, Maria and Giovanni, have worked together to run the estate. The iconic winemaker, Dante Scaglioni – who earned his stripes at the great Bruno Giacosa estate as their winemaker for 25 years – stepped in to guide the winemaking process in 2012, which brought the portfolio to extraordinary new levels of expression and complexity, alongside his protege, Francesco Versio.

This 95-point 2017 Tradizionale – Oddero’s classic Barolo blended from several of their top parcels – has become known as one of their all-star bottlings. The different blocks of fruit are vinified and aged separately before a tasting trial determines the final blend. Fermentation takes place in cement casks with no added yeasts, and aging occurs in large oak barrels of 65 to 85 hectoliters capacity. The vineyard practices have been certified organic since 2014, eliminating the usage of any chemicals in order to preserve the essence of the wine, as well as the health of the land.

All of this thought and effort astoundingly pays off in Oddero’s 2017 – which is showing to be a classic expression of a warm vintage of Barolo. Drinking like it’s already been cellared to perfection, the purity and traditional characters are unmatched, with impressive levels of smooth, sultry freshness. Aromas of red currant, plum, and baked strawberry erupt from the glass with a touch of spice, plus notes of pressed flowers, cherry compote, cigar box, anise, and sun-drenched earth sliding in first thing on the palate, alongside touches of saline minerality and harmonious rose petals. A graceful freshness and warm tannins sublimely balance out the big berry, earth, and spice characters. This is a magnificent Barolo from one of the area’s longest-standing family grower-producers and an ever-worthwhile addition to your cellar! For just under $50 a bottle, it’s an easy choice!

PAIRING IDEAS: If you ask me, fall is here (and, yes, I’m disregarding the weather app in this statement). Bring in all the rich, cozy comfort meals, like Ina Garten’s red wine-braised short ribs. You’ll need a full bottle of red wine for it, but I’d go with your favorite budget-friendly Bordeaux or pinot, and save this exquisite Barolo for your glass.