Reviews
Technical Details
- WinemakerGiampiero Bea
- CountryItaly
- RegionUmbria
- AppellationUmbria
- Farming MethodOrganic & Biodynamic Practices
- Alcohol13%
Paolo Bea Arboreus Trebbiano Spoletino Umbria Bianco 2016
The Legendary Paolo Bea – this miniscule production of Umbrian orange wine, made from a Trebbiano clone known as Trebbiano Spoletino, is what wine geeks’ dreams are made of...95 POINTS, ancient vine-training methods, skin-contact fermentation, and two years of aging on stainless steel has created something akin only to magic. And we nabbed it for 57% OFF!
When Rosenthal Wine Merchant – one of our favorite and most trusted importers known for working with small, family-run, highly respected producers that Somms gush over – tapped our shoulder about this wine, our ears perked up immediately. Skin contact (or orange) wines have somewhat of a polarizing effect – there’s an influx of them currently due to a surge in “natural” wine popularity, but it’s rare to find one that’s really, really well done. For us, the production has to be thoughtful every step of the way, and the final product has to toe the line delicately between earth, acid, fruit, and a tinge of funk, without that overt sourness or bitterness the cheaper ones often carry. We knew Rosenthal wouldn’t lead us astray, so we poured a sample of this into our glasses and just immediately felt its nirvanic, transcendent impression on our palates. This is as incredible, complex, fresh, and downright geeky as orange wine can get – and an utterly sensational wine for the price here!
Paolo Bea is a small, family-run winery known for their traditional winemaking style, organic and biodynamic farming practices, and wild, sun-drenched local wine varieties that come from the gnarly, rippling hills of their homeland in Umbria. Planted on the low hills between Trevi and Montefalco, these vines grow in the ancient city of Spoleto at an elevation of 650 to 700 feet on 15 separate parcels facing both east and southwest. Rooted in soils of clay, gravel, and limestone, the vines are trained using an ancient method, where they’re enmeshed with trees to grow up their trunks so the fruit dangles high above the ground. Some of these vines are pushing 150 years of age, only adding to the complexity and depth of the wine.
If this sounds like some ethereal vision of vineyards from a fairytale, you’d be right...and the wine is just as enchanting. Harvested in early October for the fullest expression of maturity, the grapes sit in contact with the skins for 2 to 3 weeks before going into stainless steel tanks to age another 24 months, keenly preserving the exotic and minerally freshness prior to bottling. Only 3,000 bottles of this are produced – it is as rare as it is enticing! With harmonious aromas of dried apricots, sage, persimmons, and clementines, the palatal body continues to allure with a puckering citrus sensation, plus minerally clay, dried herbs, gardenias, candied ginger, and a touch of fresh kiwi, salty sea spray, and a dusting of cinnamon-sugar (you know, the kind you used to put on buttered toast). A bright acidity and soft minerality interplay with the robust fruit sensations to bring in a long, luscious finish that is pure delightfulness and verve. We sincerely can’t get over how good this is – and impressive as can be! For under $50 and over 50% off, this is worth getting at least a few – plus, we’ve got complimentary shipping on 4 or more!
PAIRING IDEAS: Fermented foods are insanely delicious alongside orange wines – I’m getting down with some kimchi udon noodles like this recipe.