Michel Coutoux has three parcels inside the Clos, totalling 0.5ha and planted in 1992, 1996 and 2005. True to his winemaking style, which is especially well suited to 2017, this shows sea breeze and oyster-shell aromas, lots of wet stone minerality, scented oak and a core of citrus fruit.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean is one of the highlights of the Niellon portfolio this year, unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, lemon, toast, nutmeg and subtle smoke. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, with terrific depth, racy acids and a long, stony finish. 1992 was the first vintage for these vines, Niellon's holdings here having previously been planted entirely to Pinot Noir, and they are clearly hitting their stride today: it's the finest white Clos Saint-Jean I've tasted from this domaine.