Peter Sisseck was ecstatic about the quality of the 2015 Pingus. Since he no longer uses any new oak—and hasn't since 2012—the élevage in used wood is extended to 23 or 24 months. This is the first vintage certified as biodynamic from Demeter. We poured the wine and took half an hour to get to it, as the wine was very closed at first and opened up very slowly in the glass. Little by little, the nose started showing a floral character, what I consider the perfume of great Ribera del Duero, the elegant part that compensates the powerful nature of the wines and gives the finesse to the best wines. The wine has been very consistent in the last few vintages, as Sisseck reckons the old but balanced vines (they started working in biodynamics in 2000) cushion the vintage differences more than other younger vineyards. These vines were planted in 1929, and they have always been farmed organically and in a traditional way. This is truly outstanding. In a way, it made me think of 2010, even if they are very different years. It was bottled in August 2017, and there are some 6,500 bottles of this gem. Even if very young, it already drinks well. Great wines tend to be drinkable throughout their life...

A layered and rich red with dark berries. So floral and beautiful with burnt orange and cedar undertones. Full body, very fine tannins and long, rich finesse, yet always fresh and vivid. Needs four to five years to soften. Try in 2022.

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, potpurri, exotic spices and incese, all sharpened by a vibrant mineral topnote. Stains the palate with concentrated, sharply focused blackberry, bitter cherry, violet pastille and fruitcake flavors that deftly blend power and delicacy. Shows superb clarity and resonating florality on a strikingly long, penetrating finish framed by polished, well-knit tannins.