Domaine Paul-Henri Thillardon Chenas Chassignol 2018

Domaine Paul-Henri Thillardon is based in Chassignol – roughly halfway between Lyon and Beaune (and only about 25 miles from Geneva.) Here, brothers Paul-Henri and Charles have built up 4 hectares to call their own, with 80-100-year-old vines that have been farmed organically (implementing biodynamics as well) since the very beginning. Paul-Henri had long felt that Moulin-Au-Vent unjustly overshadowed Chénas – with vineyards built on similar granite and quartz-based soils that add power and structure to the gamay noir grape. With just over 250 hectares, and only 120 producers, it is understandable that Chénas never matched Moulin’s notoriety, but nevertheless, this is a wine worthy of attention.

This offering is delightfully assertive – not to mention bright, spicy, and quite rich, all with a vibrant acidity to keep things robust. Fresh and intense, with a savory, peppery edge, and loads of red florals and berry fruits ranging from peonies and roses to red currants, cherries, and raspberries. Long and dry on the finish, with plenty of structure suitable for cellaring. The vinification is traditionally Burgundian, with de-stemmed fruit, whole berry maceration, and a noticeably delicate extraction. Sulfur is added in small amounts at bottling, but these are about as old-school, naturally made, and straight-up delicious as you’ll find in Beaujolais wines today.