Champagne Paul Dethune Princess des Thunes Prestige Extra Brut Grand Cru NV

Pierre Dethune is the latest in a long line of vintners going all the way back to 1610. Like each of his forebears, Pierre has created his own style of Champagne – rooted in tradition yet ever-evolving – the one constant being the grassy lands of Ambonnay. Over the past few years, the Dethune portfolio has gradually lowered the total dosage – moving below the 6g/liter allotment and transitioning the wines to Extra Brut or below (even when labeled as Brut). This shift has produced an enhanced freshness and verve to the finished wines without sacrificing the purely ripe fruit orchard characteristics that is definitively Ambonnay.

The Princess des Thunes is a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, with the addition of 30% reserve wine from lots going all the way back to the 1970s. The wine is all barrel aged, resulting in a “mature” style of Champagne that abounds with complexity – spicy, savory, and earthy tones, with the faintest whisper of oxidation adding even further depth. This is comparable in style to Krug or Jacques Selosse, at a price tag nowhere near those other wines! If ever a nearly $70 bottle of Champagne could be championed for its incredible value, this is that champion!

Located in the pristine hamlet of Ambonnay and is one of only 17 villages rated as "Grand Cru" in the whole of Champagne. Pierre and Sophie Déthune have become known for their powerful yet delicate wines. The vineyard practices natural and organic techniques such as integrated pest management, solar power, and a complete lack of chemical use in the vineyard. Ambonnay is arguably the center point of the grower champagne movement and host to numerous small farmers following in the path laid forth by the Dethunes.

The pinot noir takes the lead in this bottling, with a nose of summer strawberries and raspberries, followed by floral notes of peach blossoms and preserved lemons. On the palate, the wine showcases spicy ginger and nutmeg with a warm woodsy note. The finish is dry, lush, and creamy. This is powerful, heady, and thought-provoking stuff that seriously delivers (or, rather, over-delivers) for the price! Only 30 cases are available, so get some before it is gone!

PAIRING IDEAS: With cooler days on the horizon (about time!), I’m looking forward to fall. The perfect dish for this? Creamy Pumpkin Soup...and go ahead and ignore the recipe on this...the crème fraîche is NOT optional.

MUSIC SUGGESTIONS: “Come and join the party – dressed to kill…” It’s like Roger Daltrey of The Who was channeling me, in my long-stowed fall attire best, showing up to a post-harvest celebration with this show stopping bottle of wine. ”Eminence Front”, indeed!