(More than one-third of the 2011 crop came in at less than one ton an acre; done entirely in new oak, including 25% T% Taransaud barrels, which now set back American buyers about $1,700 apiece, according to Paul Golitzin): Bright, full medium ruby. Reticent but pure aromas of dark berries, bitter chocolate and graphite mineralit. Densely packed, concentrated and serious, conveying a powerful impression of youthful grip to its savory dark fruit, floral and mineral flavors. Most impressive right now on the palate-staining finish, which features powerful yet harmonious tannins and a strong savory character. It will be a real treat to taste this wine next to the equally extraordinary 2010 a decade from now. Certainly these two cool growing seasons are huge successes for Quilceda Creek.

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard comes all from the Golitzin’s Red Mountain vineyard and is almost all Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the richest and most concentrated wines in the vintage, it offer fabulous creme de cassis, black raspberry, graphite, toast and licorice aromas and flavors to go with a full-bodied, seamless and beautifully balanced profile on the palate. As expected, it doesn’t have the sheer wealth of material that’s present in the prior vintages, yet everything is perfectly proportioned, it has excellent mid-palate depth and notable, sweet tannin. It benefits from a decant and will have upwards of two decades of longevity. Always producing some of the finest Bordeaux blends in any vintage, owners/winemakers Alex and Paul Golitzin continue to keep Quilceda Creek at the pinnacle of Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington State with these 2011s and 2012s. Looking at their 2011s, yields were down close to 40%, and this shows with the wines possessing gorgeous depth, richness and concentration. While Paul feels his 2011s are just as concentrated as his 2010s, the overall impression between these two cool vintages is distinctly different and the 2011s show much more up-front, perfumed and supple profiles. As always, the tannin management here is second to none and while the 2011s have plenty of tannin, you have to hunt for it as they’re incredibly polished and silky. These 2011s will be approachable at an earlier stage than normal, yet evolve gracefully on their overall balance. Looking at the 2012s, I was blown away by these samples, which were shipped to Colorado and then followed for multiple days. Described as a “good” and “welcome” vintage by Paul, the wines have blockbuster levels of concentration and richness, yet stay beautifully pure, elegant and focused. They’re up there with the creme de la creme from this fantastic estate. Don’t miss them. Alcohols here are in the 15.5 range (with the 2011 around 15), but you’d never know it from tasting the wines. The big news at this estate is that with vineyard-owner Paul Champoux retiring, the Golitzin’s were able to increase their ownership in the Champoux Vineyard from 40% to 66%. Other owners here include Powers, Andrew Will and Woodward Canyon. How this effects the overall production levels is yet to be determined, but a top producer getting more grapes from a top site is never a bad thing from a consumer standpoint.

Firm in texture, with a layer of drying tannins around a brilliantly focused core of blackberry and currant, coming together on the finish and persisting well. Has the goods to age. Best from 2016 through 2021. 2,250 cases made.