Violet, new leather, perfumed berry and a whiff of face powder mingle together with camphor on this fragrant red. On the structured, polished palate, taut, refined tannins support succulent Morello cherry, mulberry and licorice. It's already tempting, but hold for even more complexity.

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is starting to shut down in bottle, but the signatures are still very much present, namely acidity and structure that give depth while also providing terrific balance to the generosity of the year. The Pajè was much more expressive when I tasted it a few months ago.

This is a small vineyard close to the village of Barbaresco, and its limestone-dominant soils usually give wines that are bright and floral - this wine meets that expectation. The nose shows intensity and purity, with piercing red fruit aromas. It's supple on the attack, bright but weighty, and very concentrated. Lively acidity gives the finish tension and persistence. Elegant and long.

The Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè shows a heavier center of gravity (compared to the Pora) with thicker concentration of dark fruit at the middle. The jump is not big, but it is noticeable, like one step up a ladder. This wine produces more ferrous earth and iron ore with plenty of dark fruit. The mouthfeel is less complicated and shorter too in this vintage, although the tannins feel firm and prominent. Between Pora and Pajè, I'd give a slight edge to Pora.

A beam of fresh cherry and plum plays out over a line of earth, tar and licorice in this round and open red, with well-integrated tannins for support. Shows excellent balance and length and should be approachable soon. Best from 2023 through 2040.