The 2012 Morgon Cote du Py Cuvee James comes from 50-year-old vines from a parcel at the top of the hill close to the cross. Jean-Marc told me that he was encouraged to create a separate cuvee at the behest of his importer, and it is named for his love of “007.” The nose is very well-defined with the mineralite filtering through the carapace of red cherries and cranberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, very well-judged acidity and a harmonious, complex finish that is imbued with superb tension, but somehow seems effortless. Superb. Drink 2015-2028. I dropped in at Jean-Marc Burgaud just outside Villie-Morgon, not far from the Cote du Py where he owns several parcels of vine. He told me that he started in 1989, the same year that he married his wife Christine (though when we were tasting older vintages, he said that the few bottles remaining from that year are for special occasions). They own about 19 hectares of vine: 13 hectares in Morgon, complemented by another five hectares of Beaujolais Villages and another in Regnie. Though not certified, he has not used chemicals in the vineyard for over a decade, the vines planted high density (10,000 bush vines per hectare) in order to enhance fruit concentration, and he usually picks later than many other growers. He usually practices a semi-carbonic maceration with regular pumping over in order to keep the fruit moist. The wines are raised in concrete vats, although the Cote du Py cuvees see partial barrel aging. This was a very consistent set of quite structured and concentrated Morgon wines that attested to Jean-Marc’s policy of picking late. Like Jean-Paul Brun, stylistically they lean toward Burgundy in style: more serious Beaujolais wines that will reward cellaring.