The 2016 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (AP 42 17) has a lovely clear and flinty-scented white stone fruit aroma with refreshing slate notes. Clear, lush and intense on the palate, this is a light but pretty complex and remarkably well-defined Kabinett in the off-dry style. Very digestible and with stimulating grip and salinity.

On the nose, this displays sea breeze and sweaty salinity, anticipating the savory mineral and animal aspects that follow on a buoyant palate brimming with juicy fresh apple. Tinglingly salty, stony notes and a faintly peppery impingement enliven a buoyant, mouthwatering, refreshing finish that just barely hints at sweetness. Once again, this is a model of its type, and I wish the Selbachs raised other such halbtrocken bottlings that combine levity with efficacious yet genuinely hidden residual sugar.

This has the imprint of the sun and shadow, the rain and hot slate stones of the Mosel vineyards in it. A delicate wine with inspiring freshness. Drink any time between now and 2030.