The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Les Terres Fines (2015) is based on the 2015 vintage, complemented by some 30% of reserve wines from a solera dating back to 1986, and it was disgorged in April 2018 with two grams per liter dosage. The wine demands some time in the glass to open up, revealing aromas of crisp green pear, fresh brioche, white peach and toasted walnuts. This is followed by a full-bodied, vinous palate that's precise and promisingly tight-knit, with lovely purity and a nicely defined finish, and the ripe fruit of the vintage is manifested more in chewy dry extract than any overt heaviness. Interestingly, the aromatic imprint of this Champagne's solera component is still very subtle, though I suspect it will show its hand more plainly after a few years under cork.

Dhondt-Grellet's NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Terres Fines 1er Cru is powerful, intense and richly flavored, with plenty of old-vine Chardonnay character. There is a real vinosity in the glass that is hugely appealing. Over time, the wine fills out its broad frame nicely. Although the Les Terres Fines is at times a bit burly, it is certainly not lacking in personality. This is a decidedly masculine expression of Cuis Chardonnay. Lemon confit, wild flowers, almonds and brioche infuse the deeply satisfying finish. The low dosage style works nicely here. The Terres Fines is 70% 2013 and 30% reserve wines from a perpetual reserve that goes back to 1986. Dosage is 0.85 grams per liter.